The first time I heard about the area around the Greek-Albanian border (Mike writes) was many years ago on a flight from Athens back to the UK. I was sitting next to a guy who was in the US military, and at that time the whole area was a military zone.
The soldier told me how wonderfully beautiful the area was, with mountains and forests, an abundance of wildlife, and unspoiled by any visitors. I never forgot his description, and several years later, when restrictions were lifted, I got chance to visit while researching a guidebook to mainland Greece.
I stayed a few days in Ioannina, which immediately became one of my favourite Greek cities, not least for its lovely lakeside location. I then drove two hours north to Kastoria, another gorgeous lakeside town, smaller than Ioannina but no less interesting historically. I was pleased to find a parking spot on an empty street near to a hotel I’d read about in the Rough Guide.
I was less pleased the next morning when, in the pouring rain, I went to my car and discovered I’d parked on the street where the Saturday morning market was held. Two guys were looking very miserable in the rain, unable to put their stall up. I made a dash for the car and raced out of there, the two men shaking their fists in my rear-view mirror. Oops!
The rain cleared as I left Kastoria and headed for the Prespa Lakes. Here is where the borders meet. The border between Greece and Albania goes through the Small Prespa Lake, with most of the lake being in Greece. That border continues into the Great Prespa Lake, where it also meets the border with North Macedonia/
This week the Greek government announced that they are making access to Albania easier, by extending the Ionia Odos motorway, though not to the areas I’ve been describing. It will, however, link up with other motorways, making a driving holiday in Epirus and visiting the Prespa Lakes and Kastoria, much easier.
At the moment the motorway stops in Ioannina, but it will be extended by 70 kms (43 miles), going northwest from Ioannina. It will reach the Albanian border at Kakavia, and from here it’s just an hour’s due west to get to the Albanian port of Sarande. From here there are ferry connections with Corfu Town, and one time when we were in Corfu we took the chance to spend a few days in Albania, which was magical.
Don’t make any plans for next year, though, as it’s not expected to be completed till the middle of 2029.
This will be our last newsletter of 2024, so we wish all our subscribers a happy holiday season and we’ll be back in 2025 to keep you posted on all things Greece.
Mike and Donna
Unfortunately, Greek rental car companies currently don't let you drive into Albania (admittedly, drivers in Albania make Greek drivers look pretty tame).