The first time we went to the island of Tilos, we sat in the village square in the early evening to enjoy a glass of wine before dinner. After a while, there was a lot of high-pitched squeaking in the air above the square, as masses of birds swirled around over everyone’s heads.
The locals ignored it, of course, as it turned out to be a nightly occurrence. At first glance I thought they might be swifts or swallows, who do behave like that, but looking closer they appeared to be some kind of falcon. Asking around we discovered they were Eleonora’s falcons, the only falcon or hawk which lives communally in large groups.
Tilos has a breeding population of about 650 of these magnificent birds, which represents around 10% of the global population. They breed mostly on islands in the Mediterranean, but also in mainland Spain and Italy, and in North Africa.
I’ve always been interested in birds, ever since I was a boy growing up in the English countryside. I’d never call myself an ornithologist, as I only have a layman’s knowledge, and I never got into the business of keeping lists of what I’d seen. But to see several dozen of these swift and swooping birds, amazingly not bumping into one another, was a delight, and something to look forward to every evening of our holiday.
These falcons, which are only about 14-17” (36-42cm) long, spend their winters in Madagascar, off the East African coast, then fly to the Mediterranean in the spring to breed and raise the young, then fly back in the autumn. The migratory habits of birds and animals are always amazing.
A Nightingale Sang…
Another unforgettable time for me was the first time I heard a nightingale singing. I was staying in Ioannina while researching a guidebook, and took a ferry across to the little island in the lake, Nissi, to have dinner one night. It was dusk and I wanted to walk round the island. Someone told me to listen for the nightingales at one particular spot.
I set off on my walk and found the spot they’d described. I stood and waited, and sure enough the most wonderful bird song I’ve ever heard in my life burst forth from the bushes. If you’ve ever heard a nightingale sing you’ll know it’s impossible to describe in words. Best to let you listen to it here:
Birdwatching in Greece
In short, Greece is a wonderful country for birdwatching, and this week we added a new page to our website, about Birdwatching on Lesbos. We already have a page on Birdwatching in Greece, which lists several other places in the country which are exceptionally good for watching birds.
Birdwatching Holidays in Greece
If you’re interested in birds and want to know more about them, there are several companies offering birdwatching/wildlife holidays in Greece. The advantage of these are that you will be with a knowledgeable guide who knows where to go (they may have been leading tours for several years), and what you’re seeing. Take a look at these suggestions, though there are many more if you search online:
Heatherlea (Birdwatching on Lesbos)
And that’s it.
Till next time!
Mike and Donna